By the time the paprika has dried on its strings, the work in the vineyards is coming to an end too. The grape harvest used to be one of the biggest community events of the year, and at the end of it came the reward: the new wine.

When the whole village was up on the hill

The harvest was never a single family’s job. Relatives, neighbours and friends helped one another, and whoever picked at one grower’s vineyard today would be at another’s tomorrow. During the day they cut the bunches and carried them in puttony, wooden baskets worn on the back, to the press house. In the evening, everyone ate and drank together.

In most wine regions, the harvest takes place in September and October. According to old tradition, it had to be finished by the feast of Saints Simon and Jude, on 28 October. In Tokaj, picking the aszú berries can stretch on even longer, since growers wait for the grapes to shrivel on the vine.

The harvest ball

The end of the work was celebrated with a harvest festival. In many villages it began with a parade of horse-drawn carts, young people in folk costume and music. Then came the ball in the evening, with bunches of grapes hung from the ceiling.

One of the most popular games of the night was tied to those grapes. Anyone caught stealing from the hanging bunches was led by the vineyard watchmen before the village judge and had to pay a forfeit, usually a dance or a glass of wine. Harvest balls are still held in many places today, and the grape-stealing game has survived as well.

Must, murci, new wine

After pressing, the grape juice first becomes must. As it starts to ferment, it turns into murci: a cloudy, sweetish, slightly fizzy drink that’s only good for a few days. From this, the new wine develops.

New wine is the first wine of the year. It’s light, fresh and fruity, and meant to be drunk young. Traditionally, it was first tasted on St Martin’s Day, 11 November. That was when people found out what the vintage was like, and when the St Martin’s goose was served. We’ll write more about that in November.

What to drink with autumn dishes?

Hungarian cooking is hearty, rich and full of paprika, so it calls for a wine that can stand up to it. Among reds, Kadarka and Kékfrankos are the best match, and among whites, Olaszrizling and Furmint. If you’re curious what we’d recommend with your dish, just ask our team. They’re always happy to help.